Tuesday, February 13, 2018

A short review on Eau de Cologne by Johann Maria Farina


Popularity means the state of being liked by many people. It gains when an object or article meets basic expectations of aesthetics in a massive group of people. To give an example, one day something ordinary captured my attention while I was waiting in my car. It was a school bus parking in a corner. While on rear gear the bus played a monotone melody of Für Elise by Ludwig Van, as caution of a large vehicle driving backwards.

Monday, January 29, 2018

Passionate, poetic and inventive: An interview with Sultan Pasha


In today's fast food world where quality became a remote aspect of life and everything is produced for short timeline, one stood against all odds to resurrect a heritage of perfumery from its very origin. What is made ephemeral is produced by menial methods for massive population. As a result, attar oils and traditional mukhallat (in Arabic means blend) which are fruits of patience andd maceration, are put in shade by modern perfume and disgraced by inferior quality provided by anonymous online opportunists. Nevertheless, it is quite fascinating to hear pros and cons of attars and mukhallats from one of the most upgrowing perfumers of this range. Thanks to his kind and friendly personality, and a little thanks to social network where we gather to share our passion for odor, many of you know who's the nose behind the picture above. Sultan Pasha; a self-thought perfumer with eastern origin and western identity.

Although he's fully introduced by many bloggers who described his creations, I found it necessary to go further with an interview. I confess I went sooo deep in conversation! Thank you for your patience.

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Under my Skin by Francesca Bianchi; a Fragrance Review


The last few months have not been easy. A baby boy joined our family and it's so beautiful to be father, yet many of my perfumes jailed in wardrobe for the sake of his health. So it's been four months I haven't wear a perfume like I used to do before. Add last months of my wife's pregnancy and her heightened sense of smell to this period! As you guess I'm like Robbinson Crusue meets New York. If I ever needed a full-bodied fragrance with too many aspects, it's now. After months of hunger, I can't get enough of few notes in a perfume. I Need a massive pick.

Monday, January 15, 2018

Across 110th Street: Times Square by Masque Milano

I have never been in NYC, begrudgingly, but the Milano-based niche house of Masque Milano with their new release, Times Square, take me to years ago when I was deeply fond of cinema and I was a die-hard fan of Scorsese and his Taxi Driver. The movie's several sections passes through pervert streets of Times Square, showing porn cinemas, street jazz players, drug dealers, pimps, prostitutes and stench of cheap life all in a straight panorama of Scorsese's camera. I like the way he makes his masterpiece from streets where life is harsh, intense and stench. The same way acts Bruno Jovanovic - the architect behind Masque Times Square - with clarion notes and prominent accords. His tribute to old Times Square reminds me of Across 110th Street by Bobby Wommack.

Friday, December 1, 2017

Urbanized sandalwood: Comme des Garçons Concrete

Since childhood strange smells of environment that others find disgusting with abhorrent face were, and still are, matter of curiosity for me. That is a gift I had by which I extend boundaries of my google earth over our neighborhood, to nearby farms, meadows and woods, while other children were sentenced to live their miserable childhood on asphalt football courts. I should clarify that my neighborhood then was surrounded by orange farms, paddy fields and several unconstructed lots occupied by birches and poplars. That gave me enough material to grow up organic in city!

Wednesday, November 8, 2017

Fragrance review: Bourreau des Fleurs by Serge Lutens

Few months ago the house of Serge Lutens unveiled a new member of their newly sorted Collection noir named Dent de lait. In addition they announced for birth of a new member of luxury collection of Section d'Or named Bourreau des fleurs. I had been truly antsy to get my hands on and my wish materialized with kindness of a dear friend in the house to whom I'm deeply thankful. While most part of perfumistas and connoisseurs are amused by Dent de lait (for its availability and new 100ml packaging of Collection noir), I found Bourreau des fleurs quite a fancy and intriguing fragrance to jog down.

Thursday, October 12, 2017

Delicious and gentle: Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle

Neither Frederic Malle, nor the Belgian fashion designer, Dries Van Noten. I want to begin with Bruno Jovanovic - a shady portrait in perfume industry whose name refers for, surprisingly, iconic fragrances, though his name stayed unechoed. Here he is the architect of Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle. In a collaboration with both Dries Van Noten and French perfume house, Editions de Parfums, Mr. Jovanovic creates a fragrance that reflects Belgian breath and Van Noten's designs. It's fruit of, reportedly, eighteen months of work to emerge a fragrance that smells ambiguously gourmand without being clearly so.

Wednesday, October 11, 2017

Of winds and salty waters: review of Viking by Creed


The house of Creed updates its profile with a new masculine fragrance that signifies modern man and is inspired by resolute devotion to exploration. The new release, Viking, immediately - even long before it officially announced - turned all cameras to the house. It's a Creed after all! The architect behind this scent is Olivier Creed who has been developing the house into new age of perfumery with many modern fragrances for both women and men since 1970's. His passion in voyage and seafaring encouraged him to capture the idea behind his new perfume from Iceland and northern waters where Viking culture originated.

Wednesday, August 9, 2017

A dress to smell: Superstitious by Frederic Malle

It takes guts to come up with a new floral aldehyde in the time the category is reckoned extinct, first and majorly, because this genre is tightly related to memories of past and their era is, begrudgingly, over. Secondly floral aldehyde is a heady floral sparkling soapy category that for its link to past immediately reminds of oldness, muscular weakness and lack of health, which accordingly confront with repulse. Many of the genre are barely loved in public, specially among young generation. Last year Chanel accomplished to revive their legacy with new No5 l'Eau - luminous floral aldehyde - to adapt it to contemporary fashion. Another remarkable work is Dominique Ropion's newest launch for Frédéric Malle. This fragrance is interestingly named Superstitious and more interesting is this perfume is not a modification of an earlier stuff. It's totally new and it's crazy! Nevertheless, it does not face problems Chanel have simply because it is a first class niche tag whose audience scarcely seen in Sephora.

Monday, July 24, 2017

Terroni by Orto Parisi

Alessandro Gulatieri, the nose and artist behind Nasomatto, Orto Parisi and MariaLux lines of fragrances, updates his profile with a new incense-snipping fragrance for Orto Parisi named TerroniAs a non-Italian speaker this is a nice term to pronounce but the term is actually an offensive address to people of south Italian regions. While in urban slang, the term terroni (plural of terrone) seems to be a synonym of redneck in the US, the title is actually a reference to people who work with their hands in traditional methods and yield the earth and form roots of civilization without a shame of being rural or being engaged with farmyards. It is as real as Antonio Ricci in The Bicycle Thief and as lived and weary as portraits in Mario Giacomelli's camera.

Saturday, July 15, 2017

Walls of serenity: En Passant by Frederic Malle

I have been living in Ankara since 2010. A soulless city with concrete buildings and no nature nor water. But if you ask what in this city makes me excited the most I immediately reply scent of lilacs bushes in May. Hanging violet clusters of tiny flower form canopies on tip of their fragile stems. A heavy spring rain gives its scent a dusky face and mixing with smell of soil after rain, lilacs depict a cute sweetness with gray-shaded render that I cannot pass by without breathing it all the way in. En Passant made in 2000 by maestro perfumery Olivia Giacobetti - I should kiss her nose one day - is a rare example of lilac smell in perfumery and also a rare example of post-rain soil. (Not exactly smell of petrichor)

Friday, July 7, 2017

Chic and luxury; part II: Lux by Mona di Orio

Some portraits of perfume art changed my path and my journey in olfactory realm. One of them is Mona di Orio, whose chiaroscuro play of light and darkness evokes my inner dark passenger. A nose who delivered melancholy, darkness, erotism and elegance at once in all her soulful creations. Although after artist's death the house's new policy changed the bottles, juice volume and even created new formulas, MdO is still an elusive artistic brand with greats timeless works. The perfume I'm obsessed to write about, Lux, is a member of Signature Collection delivered in 2006. Before I skip to the scent I should mention another portrait who impressed me is Luca Turin, whose avuncular reviews fascinated me, nevertheless, his thumbing down reviews on many of MdO's works and malice towards herself made me rather intrigued about her creations because happily I have tried them all before I know Turin, otherwise, you know how great his impact is!

Monday, June 19, 2017

From palaces with love: an overview on Parfum d'Empire

Parfum d'Empire is a French niche house of exquisite fragrances which have been established in 2003 by creative director and nose Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. The inspiration source behind creations of this house is ancient empires and olfactory attribution of each depending on their cultures and available materials in their territories, to emerge an illusion of the past's glamour. In this post I shortly review few of their feminine works.

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Chic and luxury: La Belle Hélène by Parfums MDCI

Chic or luxurious, this is not the question, this is the obsession. Two infinite obsessions with definitions near to each other. For me, general speaking, chic is intellectual, arty, and profoundly weird without making incommodity. It better not to be quintessential and conventional, nor aspirational. Like Picasso or Pollock, or even Keith Haring. They are artistic, or at least they surely were at their own time before they hyped. Art is what thrills you, what disturbs your ordinary mood and makes you out of yourself to look to things in a different view. Shocks you. Chic is charming, like a different style of dressing, an exotic taste, an unfamiliar music.
Luxury, on the other hand, is settled, archetypal and related to comfort, wealth and dainty like saunter with high heels on!

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Culture has no boundaries: an overview on new works of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

When we were younger, twenty years ago or so, a silly play with cousins we used to do, when gathered every weekend in grandpa's village house, was chewing crimson rose petals to paint our tongues red! I still remember tea-like metallic taste, fresh dramatic smell, and velvet-like surface of rose petals in my mouth. I clearly recorded the picture of those days, comfortable late-spring sunlight, first cicada chirps over a tall maple in nearby orange farm, juiciness of loquats and smell of grandma's chicken coop.

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

An overview on feminine fragrances by Rancé 1795

© pierre de nishapurHistorically based in Grasse and today based in Milan, the French perfumery house of Rancé 1795 takes its roots back in early 17th century when the family was in scented gloves production and trade for aristocratic society of old France.

Monday, June 5, 2017

Portrait of a gentleman: Brioni Eau de Toilette


© pierre de nishapurDue to a notable growth in the last decades - regardless to cons and pros - the perfume industry is swelled in a colossal scale and categorized in tens of branches. Some simply called mainstreams or designers, aiming to produce ordinary stuff from inferior to middle quality to catch fish from mass marketing and department stores. Finding good quality from this class if finding gold in river; hard labor but possible and once found it's Kuh-i-Noor! Once a while happens to see legendary fragrances like Dior Fahrenheit, Chloé Love, or Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.
Niches, indies, naturals, mainstreams, on and on... the categories are endless and each targets its customers from distinct angle. In this crowded bazaar there's a minority - yet large enough to gather in a group - of couture or tailor houses - mostly Italians - who run a small business of perfume in limited amount and superior quality. Brioni is one of them.

Wednesday, May 31, 2017

I hate roses and I'm not afraid to confess

© pierre de nishapurIt's time to confess, or whatever we call it. I need to declare - as I frequently mentioned here and there - I can't bear roses on me. I even hardly tolerate many roses on others, nevertheless, a fine rose, no matter disliked, is what deserves a decent olfactory discovery. As a fragrance reviewer I am stubborn enough to analyze many roses even if they give me fatal headache and in this post I briefly show how capable I am! I introduce the most brilliant rose fragrances dropped on my way by chance this last months. Anyhow, you bear in mind that my main motto is the more real rose is, the more I avoid!

Roses are one of the most influential materials of perfumery, one of the most ancient ones with centuries of background. They are also symbol of love, lust, romance, and in field of perfumery they are the first thing coming to mind after the term: floral. All these attributions make roses deserving coats of arms!

Friday, April 28, 2017

Swiss knife iris: Iris de Nuit by James Heeley

Ogata Kōrin, Irises at Yatsuhashi, 1709
Spring has already scattered her curtain of silk all over trees of northern hemisphere and you feel it wholly with blossoms and fresh smells in air. What can cheer up a springy day like a decent seamless iris fragrance with powdery and earthy dimensions?!

Friday, April 21, 2017

Vice Versa: Néroli d'Ispahan by Boucheron

Some members of La Collection by Boucheron

Desert of Switzerland, tropical fruits of Siberia, seasides of Mongolia... you feel confused!? Stay with this post...

The fragrance industry is getting seriously spoiled, not only by ephemeral so-called artistic indies, but also by the elders of this trade. I'm not condemning Boucheron only. This post is a bullet targeting many others.

Monday, April 17, 2017

Scent of tobacco, sense of trust: Close Up by Olfactive Studio

Left: close up shut of eye from "Your Beautiful Eyes" series by Suren Manvelyan, left: new bottle of Olfactive Studio

Smell of tobacco and coffee instantly give me sense of trust and friendship. The source of this emotional impression partially comes from the art society I was a member in. Every Tuesday we used gather in our local few blocks down the Armenian district in Tehran in an amber-lighted cafe away from cars and horns, where tobacco boxes, coffee, and handmade pipes are exhibited on shelves to ceiling. Cozy place, friendly environment and good friends... and of course smell of tobacco and coffee.

Friday, April 14, 2017

Where to settle my throne: an overview on Sultan Pasha attars; part I

Photo provided by Sultan Pasha

The policy of seeding market with fragrant luxury tagged with astrological prices with excuse of artistic ideas and high-end exclusives that gives you chance to smell entirely unique stuff, is a new fever of this last years. And ironically, instead of few, most of new-brand houses in this grand bazaar do not survive enough to impress a customer for next purchase of a certain perfume. In such crowded market which looks like an underground performance hall with low ceiling, loud noises and bothersome lights somebody's dancing waltz like nobody is there. He's Sultan Pasha who have introduced his house of attar oils in 2012 and immediately got many positive feedback from perfumistas and renown bloggers.

Sunday, April 9, 2017

Niche is not dead, yet: Geste by Humiecki & Graef

Ad picture of Geste by the house of H&G

"Niche is dead". This is what you hear frequently usually from renown niche perfume producers agitated by the mess and mass in uncontrolled growth of so-called exclusive perfume industry hit the markets this last years. Niche might be dead, but not as long as Humiecki & Graef is there. From many angles this house fits definition of niche perfumery with outrageous ideas tied to human emotions, intriguing smells composed of irrelevant sources, and superior quality...

Friday, April 7, 2017

Standout iris: an overview on some of the greatest irises I met in 2016


To talk about iris (or orris) is to talk about a material that deserves carrying a coat of arms itself, not only for being such precious in monetary definitions, but also for its celestial earthy render. Iris is the most artistic part of perfume world, an absolute melancholy, prominent in identity and at the same time fragile, compared to other ingredients.

Sunday, April 2, 2017

Wild at heart: Purple Heart v.5 by Map of the Heart


Appeared in 2014 on perfume databases, Australian perfume house of Map of the Heart, it immediately caught public interest not only by interesting list of ingredients but also, and even more than every other aspect, by their unusual and quaint heart-shaped bottles. But policy of rarity and few stockists (they are actually numerous, specially in Italy, but restricted to Europe and few other regions) keep them rather unveiled.
Influenced by medal of purple heart which is given in return of act of valour and bravery in war, the house's latest release - Purple Heart - is a feminine fragrance delivered by Jacques Huclier (the architect of great masculine gourmand, Theirry Mugler A*Men) in 2016.

Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Your daily dose of spring fragrances: an overview on versatile vetivers

Artist unknown, source: Tumblr.com

Spring already began, everywhere trees are blooming. The planet renews and smells of air change. Woods smell brittle like fresh flowers and promise of juicy yummy fruits of summer. What can be more delightful than a versatile, wearable musky vetiver with earthy floral nuances? In this post I just randomly come up to name some of those fragrances I like the most whenever I'm not sure what to wear to be casually chic: Diptyque Vetyverio, Medittorosa Nettuno, Ormond Jayne Zizan, The Different Company Sel de Vétiver, and last but not least, L'Occitane en Provence Eau de Vetyver.

King-size aromatics: Roi Sans Équipage by Henry Jacques

Photo taken from lacavalieremasquee.com

Today's fragrance industry is a battlefield of fame and business, not only for mainstream fashion houses, but also for so-called niches who claim to deliver quality products. But there are names barely heard, barely seen, barely visited in Esxence or any other event. Names that are talked like clandestine legends and Henry Jacques is one of those ultimate points that leaves no aftermath.

Mon gourmand: pros and cons of Mon Guerlain

Photo taken from Guerlain.com

While I was thinking how lucky I am for having dear friends who support me with newly-released perfumes, unexpectedly I saw Mon Guerlain in Turkish market just a week after its launch in France! It is a weird condition because many perfumes appear over a year after their official launch (to give clear instance, Chanel Boy is not introduced yet). Guerlain is not an exception and its fragrances usually retard to sit on shelves, and this is the first thing that catches my eye. What is wrong or right with this news pinky that Guerlain insists to have it introduces globally immediately?

Sunday, March 26, 2017

Green is the color: Les Extraits Vert by Tom Ford


The exclusive line of Tom Ford fragrances - Private Blend - introduces four new fragrances in a collection named Les Extraits Vert which three of them are here to introduce - sadly my sample of Vert de Fleur smashed and I couldn't attend for another one. Greens are emblem of 70's which fragrances remarkably stamped on a brilliant era, nevertheless they now are simply called oldies. Tom Ford with this verdant collection opens a case I've closed years ago, now have to reopen the case; my pleasure. Greed fragrances, no matter how far I got from today, are a part of me. Specially I always seize a brutal avuncular green fougère from 70's and 80's in my collection.

Friday, March 10, 2017

Exquisite leather, Part IV: Black №1 by House of Matriarch


Being in exactly 180° away from where artisan perfumery clusters, I always feel marooned when the topic comes to this trend of fragrance world. Therefore, when a dear friend of mine gave me a tiny sample of Blackbird (currently named Black 1, with the same formula and new bottle) I seized it with several tests to write my review that lasted one year in overall!